Skincare Ingredients You Never Want To Use
Choosing skincare and makeup product lines to trust for both safety and results can be daunting. We have spent months researching ingredients and product lines to ensure that what we use during our treatments and offer for sale are the cleanest, most effective products, that are also as safe as possible for the environment.
In Europe and Canada over 4000 ingredients are banned from use in personal care products. In the US, the list is less than 50 (for a long time it was only 11). Our skin absorbs about 88% of the ingredients we put on it directly into the bloodstream. On any given day we are exposed to as many as 168 chemical compounds in the personal care products we use on a daily basis.
This is due to not only the active ingredients in the product, but also artificial fragrances which are not regulated in the US as they are considered "proprietary blends". These fragrance formulas may contain chemical compounds which act as endocrine and hormone disruptors, immune system compromisers, carcinogens, allergens, and neurotoxins. These compounds can impact healthy fetal development, the human reproductive system, healthy immune function and responses, liver function, respiratory irritations, and increase the risk for certain types of cancer. We need to carefully consider what we consider putting on all bodies, and especially bodies that menstruate, as these bodies are typically the users of a multitude of personal care products that contain unhealthy and unsafe chemical compounds. Just consider the example of a teenage body that menstruates that uses scented shampoo and conditioner, body wash, body lotion, deodorant, perfume, hairspray and other hair styling products, artificially colored and scented cosmetics, nail polish, and personal hygiene products that may also be scented - all on a daily basis. It adds up! We are deeply curious about the rise in autoimmune conditions and infertility that we are seeing in this country and the relationship to the use of toxic personal care products. Not to mention the impact on the environment. The following are just a few of the common toxins listed by Green Envee on their Toxic NIX IT list:
Parabens (Methyl-, Isobutyl-, Proply-, Butyl-,+ Others): Used to preserve skincare products and makeup. These are xenoestrogens that can disrupt the endocrine system and alter naturally occurring hormone processes within the body. Mimic the hormone estrogen, linked to play a role in triggering breast cancer. Do not use it during pregnancy.
Phthalates (Diethyl Phthalate (DEP), Dimethyl Phthalate (DMP), Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP) + Others): Make skincare and cosmetic ingredients more pliable. Linked to disrupting the endocrine and reproductive systems causing infertility and possible birth defects. Do not use it during pregnancy.
Polyethylene Glycol (PEG Compounds) - Used to act as a thickener and solvent in creams and sunscreens. May be contaminated with measurable amounts of carcinogenic chemicals, linked to the incidences of uterine and breast cancers.
Formaldehyde - used as a preservative in cosmetics and body products (it is used as embalming fluid), and is a known carcinogen linked to health problems including headaches, allergies, asthma, neurotoxicity and developmental toxicity. Do not use it during pregnancy.
Hydroquinone - used as a skin lightener to diminish age spots, acne scarring and melasma (caused by pregnancy, birth control and HRT), which often occurs during pregnancy. Linked to cancer, it is also known to cause serious skin irritations and organ toxicity. Do not use it during pregnancy.
Resorcinol - Commonly used as a colorant and fragrance ingredient, known skin irritant that is toxic to the immune system and disrupts organ function.
Silicone - (ingredients ending in - Siloxane, -Cone, Dimethicone or -Methicone): used in products to soften hair and skin (found in many makeup primers to smooth the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles). Can disrupt the endocrine and reproductive systems and has been linked to infertility.
Toluene - used in nail polishes and hair dyes. Dangerous to the immune and central nervous systems. Can be inhaled or absorbed, has been linked to developmental problems such as birth defects.
Triclosan and Triclocarban - Used as a bactericide in personal care products. Applying this chemical to the skin can disrupt the endocrine system and impact the human reproductive system by imitating estrogen.
Ethanolamines (MEA/DEA/TEA, Cocamide MEA, Diethanolamine, Cocamide DEA, Lauramide DEA, Linoleamide DEA, Oleamide DEA, Triethanolamine TEA): Found in hair dyes, cosmetics, fragrances, and cleaning solvents. Used as a surfactant and pH adjuster. Corrosive to the skin. Linked to causing allergies, disruptions in hormones and inhibited fetal brain development.
Of course lead and mercury need to be on this list for how they impact brain development, and hormone regulation as it relates to fertility.
Always consult with your doctor if you have questions about the safety of a personal care product, especially during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Other common skincare ingredients to be avoided during pregnancy and breastfeeding include:
Retinoids, which are Vitamin A derivatives (including retinoic acid, tretinoin, palmitate and retinaldehyde) - these have been linked to severe birth defects
Oxybenzone, Avobenzone, and Octisalate - chemical sunscreen filters that are suspected endocrine disruptors and possible carcinogens
Dihydroxyacetone, found in self tanners and professional spray on tans are not recommended for use during pregnancy due to possible side effects for the baby
AHA's (such as glycolic acid) and BHA's - these products open up the skin to increase the absorption of other ingredients by disrupting the skin's barrier function - check with your doctor before using
Benzoyl Peroxide (a BHA), a powerful acne fighting ingredient, is too harsh for a developing baby
Aluminum Chloride - found in antiperspirants (preventing sweating), thought to be potentially cancer causing
Salicylic Acid (a BHA), thought to be safe in over counter doses of 2% or less, but stronger wart removal products and higher level professional salon treatments could be risky for the baby
Essential Oils - while many essential oils have been deemed safe (and beneficial for morning sickness and better sleep) to use during pregnancy and breastfeeding, others are contraindicated as they may, for example, cause uterine contractions. Always consult with your physician and a skilled herbal practitioner before using any essential oils during pregnancy and breastfeeding, and always use therapeutic grade organic ethically sourced essential oils. (note: There isn’t regulation of the essential oil industry in the U.S., so know that there isn’t a standard as to which brands can claim that they are “therapeutic grade” and organic. Always do your research into these brands. One company we trust and support is Mountain Rose Herbs.)
When considering a skincare product, be mindful of what you read on the label. In general there is a lot of "greenwashing" in the personal products industry. One area of big concern is related to fragrance. As mentioned above, there is no regulation in the US regarding the use of chemical compounds in the "proprietary blends" that make up fragrances and perfumes. There also isn't regulation regarding the use of terms such as "natural fragrance". Even products labeled as unscented may contain chemicals that impact people with sensitivities to fragrances and scents. One of the best resources available for finding out if a product is safe is EWG.org. They have an app to download and you can look for products that are EWG certified. Also look for Leaping Bunny Certification, European Union Reach Program, NSF International, USDA Organic, and MADE SAFE as examples of verification, accreditation, and/or certification standards for "clean and safe" personal care products.
There are numerous clean skincare and makeup lines available. When choosing a skincare line, look for the certifications listed above and read the ingredients - can you recognize most of them without needing to look things up? At b theory aesthetics, we have chosen to work with the following skincare companies as they meet our criteria for being organic, clean and safer for the environment: Color Up, Green Envee, Qēt Botanicals and Suntegrity. Clean options/sources for makeup that we recommend include: Beautycounter, Credo, Osmosis and Thrive Causemetics.