How to treat melasma and hyperpigmentation naturally
“Technically defined as a hyperpigmentation disease, perhaps the most important and counterintuitive aspect of melasma is that it is, surprisingly, not actually a skin problem. While it typically shows up as irregular, light to dark brown, gray, blue or black spots and lesions on the face, neck and upper chest, the causes are underneath the surface, inside the body,” according to Benjamin Knight Fuchs, RPh.
One of the most common underlying conditions for inflammation in the skin such as hyperpigmentation and melasma is biological stress. It affects the production of key hormones such as estrogen, cortisol and insulin. Under conditions of chronic stress, the fluctuations in the production of these hormones triggers an inappropriate or excessive pigmentation response, resulting in skin darkening and discoloration.
There are numerous factors that underlie conditions such as melasma, hyperpigmentation and solar lentigos (aka those adorable freckles we get!) These conditions (many of which cause biological stress on the body) may include:
Genetic influences and racial factors with a high incidence of melasma in Latin Americans and Hispanics and in Asians with deeper skin tones.
Ultraviolet (UV) radiation
Liver dysfunction
Adrenal disease
Pregnancy
Hormonal therapies and fluctuations in hormones such as estrogen, cortisol and insulin - melasma most often appears in women.
Cosmetics
Phototoxic drugs and antiseizure medications
Impaired skin barrier function
Pollution
Post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) is a result of trauma to the skin, such as an acne breakout or an injury to the surface like a cut or scratch.
Malnourishment and/or nutritional deficiencies
Fortunately, there are treatment strategies that are effective in lightening and brightening areas of darker pigmentation and discoloration on the skin. As our skin has many layers, we recommend a multi-layer approach to treating pigmentation that includes internal treatments for soothing stress and improving liver function, topical treatments that provide deeper exfoliation and skin renewal, and a consistent home care regimen in order to achieve the best results.
Internal Treatments
Love your liver! Our liver serves many important functions in the body, including helping our bodies to eliminate excess hormones. Springtime is the perfect time to begin a daily ritual of cleansing and nourishing your liver. Working with blends of medicinal herbs in the forms of teas and tinctures may be helpful to strengthen your liver function. Always consult your physician before using any herbal formulations.
Daily Tea Ritual - blend this delicious nourishing tea from organic herbs - we recommend sourcing locally in Denver from Apothecary Tinctura or in Wheat Ridge from Ritualcravt, or from Mountain Rose Herbs or Starwest Botanicals if you don’t have a good local organic apothecary in your area. Combine the following herbs:
Stinging Nettle - 2 parts
Dandelion Leaf - ½ part
Dandelion Root - ¼ part
Rose Hips - ½ part
Ginger - ½ part
Shisandra - ½ part
Orange Peel - ¼ part
Tulsi - ½ part
Add 1 tablespoon per 8 oz of hot water and brew for 15-30 minutes (or allow this to infuse overnight for maximum potency). Drink 3 cups per day of this tea blend for six weeks.
If working daily with a liver supporting tea isn’t exactly your cup of tea, consider working with a skilled herbalist who can formulate a custom tincture to help detox, regenerate and nourish your liver. You can also find liver tincture blends from Mountain Rose Herbs and Starwest Botanicals. Look for formulas that include burdock, dandelion, artichoke, yellow dock, milk thistle, turmeric.
If a dietary deficiency is the cause of melasma, increasing the intake of the deficient nutrient helps reduce skin pigmentation. Vitamins like B12, A, E, and C and minerals like iron, selenium, and zinc are good for maintaining the overall health of the skin. Working with a skilled nutritionist to help you determine if you have a dietary deficiency is essential. We highly recommend Carla Abate with Rebel Roots Nutrition.
Love your lymphatic system! Congested, stagnant fluids in the body impact our immune system and our bodies ability to heal and repair tissue. We offer Manual Lymphatic Drainage (MLD) treatments in our Skin Rejuvenation Series, which removes congestion and inflammation from the skin creating the optimal conditions for repair, rejuvenation and vitality, along with a renewed sense of wellbeing. Benefits include reduced puffiness, pigmentation, dryness, redness, breakouts and fine lines. After completing the series, we teach you how to use a lymphatic brush for ongoing lymphatic support at home.
Love your nervous system! In addition to soothing treatments such as MLD and any of our deeply relaxing custom organic facials, especially our Gua Sha facials, we recommend working with herbs that help to balance the function of the adrenal glands, ease anxiety and support our gut health. Supportive herbs include ashwagandha, reishi mushroom, tulsi or holy basil, lemon balm, and rhodiola, just to name a few. A skilled herbalist can help formulate a custom blend for your body's needs. Adaptogenic tincture blends are available from many local apothecaries, such as Apothecary Tinctura here in Denver, or from Mountain Rose Herbs or Starwest Botanicals.
Topical Treatments
Our Skin Rejuvenation Series is our go to for treating and improving the appearance of darker pigmentation. This series of five sessions may include working with a deeper exfoliation treatment such as dermaplaning, botanical peels, and Manual Lymphatic Drainage.
Collagen Induction Therapy, also known as micro-needling, is a minimally invasive skin rejuvenation treatment known for improving the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, enlarged pores, acne scarring and overall skin texture. Micro-needling can also be used to treat hyperpigmentation including melasma.
Of course, don’t forget that home care is 80 percent of the work to get the best results! In home care, one product typically won’t lift pigment, so consult with Brooke or Leigh for a custom curated skincare routine that is effective and easy to follow which includes:
Daily cleanser
Regular exfoliant - preferably enzyme based, used two times per week. We recommend Enzyme Mask from VXN b. pro and Rejuvenate Brightening Peel from Green Envee.
Daily use of a skin-lightening product that contains one or two the following ingredients (known as natural tyrosinase inhibitors): kojic acid, arbutin, azelaic acid, licorice root, helichrysum, bakuchiol, sea buckthorn oil, rosehip and carrot seed oil, and/or niacinamide. A great option is Bright Skin Licorice Root Booster-Serum from Eminence Organic Skin Care.
Daily treatment serum, such as vitamin C serum to influence cellular nutrition, brighten and reduce pigmentation. Our favorites include Glow C+ Brightening Serum from Green Envee and Purely Rosehip Serum Boost from Qét Botanicals.
Weekly use of a treatment mask with brightening ingredients such as glycolic acid - we highly recommend the Pumpkin Glycolic Peel 3% from Green Envee.
Moisturizer appropriate for skin type.
SPF, the most important element in pigmentation prevention - use zinc and/or titanium dioxide sunblock, rather than chemical based sunscreens. Our favorite is Moisturizing Mineral Face Sunscreen and Primer, Broad Spectrum SPF 30 from Suntegrity - we also love the tinted version of the product.