What to know about the skin barrier and how to protect it in a dry climate
What is the skin barrier?
The skin barrier is the outermost layer of your skin, scientifically known as the stratum corneum. This is our body’s first layer of protection from the environment, preventing environmental chemicals and biological irritants from entering skin, including free radicals, bacteria, other microbes, allergens, toxic chemicals, ultraviolet light, injury and other external assaults. In addition, the barrier’s most important task is to prevent the escape of water from inside the body - a process called Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL). The stratum corneum consists of tough skin cells called corneocytes that are bound together by mortar-like lipids, creating the skin barrier. Inside the skin cells, or “bricks,” you’ll find keratin and natural moisturizers. The lipid layer contains cholesterol, fatty acids, and ceramides. This thin “brick wall” is literally keeping you alive. Without it, all sorts of harmful environmental toxins and pathogens could penetrate your skin and wreak havoc in your body.
When the skin’s barrier function is working well, the skin is hydrated, plump, radiant and firm. But when it breaks down, overall skin health goes with it. A compromised skin barrier isn’t a disease, it is an external issue that can be healed and restored. It is also essential that we nourish the skin’s barrier function from the inside with a healthy diet. When our skin barrier is stressed and compromised we lose collagen and elastin even faster than through the normal aging process. Collagen and elastin are essential for healthy, plump, toned and vibrant skin.
The key to skin vitality is a healthy, nourished barrier function.
What are the conditions we see from a compromised barrier function?
Dry, flaky, itchy, irritated and sensitive skin are all common signs of a compromised barrier function. Additionally, our skin also thins due to the loss of estrogen production as part of the aging process. This irritation and thinning of the barrier function leaves us susceptible to environmental toxins, sagging, dryness, breakouts, inflammation and irritation. Dry skin is more permeable to irritants and allergens that may trigger inflammation leading to breakouts of acne, dermatitis, eczema, rosacea, psoriasis and signs of premature aging.
What are the sources of stress that compromise our skin’s barrier function?
Colorado’s climate - exceptionally dry in the fall and winter seasons
Dehydration
Environmental pollution, toxins and exposure to sun and wind
Emotional stress and/or trauma
Poor dental health, gut health and overall health
Over-exfoliation, harsh skincare treatments and products with harsh and unsafe ingredients
Lack of movement - lymph stagnation
Poor nutrition
Unfiltered water
Medications
Smoking, drug and alcohol use
Gua Sha facial massage supports the healthy function of the skin’s barrier.
Movement is key for supporting and improving the health of our skin in the following ways:
Improves circulation of the lymph system/fluid for detoxification
Increases circulation of blood to the skin, bringing in nutrients and hydration
Exercises the skin to improve tone, texture, reduce puffiness, and deliver ingredients deeper in the dermis
Modalities for “moving” the skin include facial massage, Gua Sha, Manual Lymphatic Drainage, and working with a specially designed lymphatic brush.
Leafy greens and antioxidant rich vegetables support healthy skin barrier and gut health
Eating a healthy diet high in nutrient-rich foods is also essential for supporting the skin’s barrier function. These foods may include:
Clean proteins - organic plant-based or organic regeneratively ranched animal sources
Healthy fats including nuts, seeds and avocado
Dark leafy greens and other colorful foods (orange, red, blue, yellow, green in color)
Fermented foods like kimchi, kombucha, apple cider vinegar and miso
For help with gut health and nutrition, we highly recommend working with a skilled nutritionist. Carla Abate, owner of Rebel Roots Nutrition, is an excellent practitioner and resource for all of your nutrition needs. Check our her latest blog, Glowing From the Inside Out.
Walking in a forest has significant health benefits, including reducing blood pressure and stress
Additionally, managing stress is key for healthy skin barrier function as well as overall health. Some simple ways to relax the body and mind, and release stress include:
Human touch - massage, healing touch
Breath work - moves lymphatic fluid, supports deep rest and relaxation
Meditation
Diffusing oils of coniferous plants - balsam, fir and pine to reduce blood pressure. This is a beautiful practice to do at the end of the day before bed.
Spending time in nature - within 5 minutes of being in a forest your blood pressure begins to drop, your facial muscles relax, your frontal lobe quiets down. The smell of pine strengthens your immune system and increases your happiness and sense of connection to others and the world around you.
Sound bowl healing
Spending time with pets - studies show that interacting with animals can reduce stress, anxiety and depression in addition to easing loneliness, encouraging exercise and improving overall health.
Plant-based organic facials support and strengthen the health of the skin’s barrier function
Tips and recommendations for a healthy skincare routine to restore and build the skin’s barrier function:
Reduce the toxic load for your skin - use products with a clean ingredient deck that repair DNA. Absolutely avoid products with parabens, phthalates, fragrance, triclosan, dimethicone, formaldehyde, toluene, sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) and sodium laureth sulfate (SLES), hydroquinone, polyethylene glycol (PEGS) and synthetic colors.
Cleanse skin properly - we tend to under-cleanse for fear of drying out our skin. We need to cleanse with the right ingredients for our individual skin’s needs. Use a cleanser that does not contain surfactants - no foaming ingredients. Our go-to cleanser is Purify Botanical Cleansing Oil from Green Envee - it’s perfect for our dry climate.
Exfoliate with care - we love enzymes for exfoliation, especially when they are combined with gentle “mechanical” exfoliators such as rice powder and bamboo powder (super brightening ingredients!) Our favorite is Illuminate Enzyme Cleansing Powder from Green Envee. A great option for enzyme exfoliation without any “mechanical” exfoliators is Rejuvenate Brightening Masque from Green Envee. These products should be used only 1-2 times a week, depending upon the health of your skin’s barrier function.
Hyaluronic acid - an essential ingredient to use in Colorado’s dry climate. This is one of the few skincare ingredients that works as a humectant, attracting hydration to the surface of the skin. We recommend and carry H.A. Collagen Boosting Serum from Green Envee.
Antioxidants - Vitamins A, C and E, topically and internally (drink green tea!). These essential ingredients fight harmful free radicals to help reduce the appearance of aging. Glow C+ Brightening Serum from Green Envee is one of the best vitamin C serums on the market.
Vitamin A - retinaldehyde (in the form of retinal, not retinol). We highly recommend the Retinal Renewal Complex from Green Envee. Use this serum 2-3 times a week to firm, plump and strengthen your skin.
Use moisturizer twice a day - prevent transepidermal water loss by wearing moisturizer day and night. Protect Antioxidant Moisturizer and Nourish Replenishing Moisturizer, both from Green Envee, are our recommendations for both daytime and nighttime moisturizers.
Protect your skin from the sun - wear a ‘big ass” hat and use a clean chemical-free sunscreen. Choose one that is zinc-based, nourishing and hydrating. We recommend and carry SPF products from Suntegrity.
Use a clean, safe deodorant - salt crystals are wonderful!
LED light therapy reduces inflammation in the skin to support a healthy skin barrier function
Safe treatments to repair and support the skin’s barrier function:
Hydrating Holistic Facials - boost the skin’s immunity and increase nutrition.
Manual Lymphatic Drainage - cleanse the skin from the inside out while reducing puffiness, redness, pigmentation and inflammation. MLD circulates vital nutrients and boosts the production of collagen and elastin to firm the skin.
Gua Sha Facial Massage - moves lymph, releases tension, tightens and tones the skin and increases product penetration.
LED Light Therapy - reduces inflammation, supports healthy circulation in the skin, plumps and firms the skin by increasing the production of collagen and elastin, reduces pigmentation and kills acne bacteria on the surface of the skin.
Microneedling - boosts the production of collagen and elastin to support the strength and health of the skin.
What else does our barrier function need:
Sleep - this is when our skin detoxes
Sweat - exercise, soak in the hot springs, sit in an infrared sauna
Hydrate - especially in Colorado, drink as much water as you can each day
Liver support - this is our detoxifier, people! Use a daily tincture with burdock, cleavers, dandelion, milk thistle, or yellow dock. Drink 1-3 cups of herbal tea that nourishes and supports your liver and digestion. Herbs that support the liver include alfalfa, red clover, nettles, burdock, peppermint, calendula and dandelion, just to name a few.
Support the skin’s intercellular matrix with marshmallow root both internally and externally.
Are you curious about the health of your skin’s barrier function? We are here to offer you a full analysis of your skin’s health and help you understand your skin’s specific needs. Book a Complimentary Consultation or facial with us today to learn more.
Resources:
The Nature Fix, by Florence Williams
A Consumer’s Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients, by Ruth Winter, M.S.
The Beauty of Dirty Skin, by Whitney Bowe, MD
